GMT Instructions

Congratulations on your Wagstaff GMT timepiece. This watch represents a continuation of Albert Wagstaff's 1923 vision – reliable British horology designed for those whose lives span more than one horizon. Whether you're coordinating across continents or simply wish to keep Greenwich Mean Time alongside your local hour, this guide will help you master your GMT complication.

Your Wagstaff GMT is powered by the TMI Seiko NH34 automatic movement – a robust 24-jewel calibre renowned for its reliability. This is a "caller's GMT," meaning the 24-hour hand can be adjusted independently from your local time, making it ideal for travellers who cross time zones.

What Makes This Different: Unlike rotating bezel GMT watches, your Wagstaff features a fixed outer 24-hour scale. This provides cleaner aesthetics and enhanced water resistance, whilst the independent GMT hand gives you all the functionality needed to track a second time zone with ease.

Your watch crown operates in three distinct positions:

Step 1: Wind Your Watch If your watch has stopped or is new, unscrew the crown and give it 20-30 clockwise rotations. You cannot overwind an automatic movement, but 20-30 turns will ensure adequate power reserve.

 

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The GMT hand and fixed outer bezel use 24-hour time (sometimes called military time). Here's how to read it:

This is the most straightforward way to use your GMT:

Example: You're in London (15:00/3 PM), but need to track New York time (10:00 AM/10:00):

If you're comfortable with time zone mathematics, you can use mental calculation with the fixed bezel to reference a third zone:

Example: You're in Tokyo (local time 09:00 AM on the main hands), the GMT hand set to 00:00 (midnight in London). To know Paris time (UTC+1), you'd look one hour ahead of your GMT hand position = 01:00.

Never adjust the date or GMT hand when your watch shows a time between 21:00 (9 PM) and 03:00 (3 AM). During these hours, the date mechanism is engaged and actively preparing to change. Forcing a date change during this period will damage the mechanism and void your warranty.

Never Turn Hands Counter-Clockwise Past Midnight: If you accidentally pass your desired time, continue rotating clockwise for a full rotation rather than going backwards.

Automatic Winding: Your NH34 movement winds itself through the natural motion of your wrist. Wearing your watch for approximately 10 hours daily will maintain the power reserve. If you don't wear it daily, wind it manually (20 rotations) before putting it on.

Water Resistance: Please check your specific model's water resistance rating. Even with good water resistance, avoid operating the crown underwater or when the watch is wet.

Accuracy: Mechanical watches vary in their timekeeping. The NH34 is adjusted at the workshop to +40/-20 seconds per day, though actual performance varies with the wearing position, temperature, and the degree of mainspring winding. This is normal for automatic movements.

Service Intervals: We recommend servicing every 3-5 years to maintain optimal performance. This includes cleaning, oiling, and replacing worn components.

"My GMT hand isn't moving!" The GMT hand moves very slowly – one full rotation per 24 hours. It advances one hour on the bezel every hour. This is the correct operation.

"The GMT and hour hands are getting further apart – is this broken?" No. The GMT hand completes one rotation per day, whilst the hour hand completes two rotations per day. They move at different speeds and will not maintain the same distance apart. This is by design.

"Can I track three time zones?" Yes, though with a fixed bezel, it requires mental calculation. Your main hands show local time, your GMT hand shows a reference time (typically home or UTC), and you can calculate a third zone from the GMT hand position.

"How do I know if it's wound enough?" If the watch is running, it has sufficient power. For optimal accuracy, wind it 20 times before wearing if it's been sitting unused.

Your Wagstaff GMT is built to the standards Albert Wagstaff established over a century ago: honest engineering, reliable performance, and classic design that serves a purpose. We've eschewed unnecessary complications in favour of robust, functional horology.

The NH34 movement is proven across thousands of watches worldwide, and with proper care will serve you faithfully for decades. Should you have questions or require service, please don't hesitate to contact us.

Warranty Note: Damage caused by incorrect date setting (during the 21:00-03:00 prohibited period) or water ingress due to improper crown operation is not covered under warranty. Please follow these instructions carefully.